The short answer
If you only have time for one city, choose Luxor. It has the greater number of major sites, spread across both banks of the Nile, and they need at least two full days. Aswan is smaller and slower: a handful of sites, a river full of granite islands and sailing boats, Nubian villages you can walk through, and the road (or flight) to Abu Simbel.
If you have five nights or more in the south of Egypt, do both. The split that works for most first visits is three nights in Luxor and two in Aswan, plus one more night if you want Abu Simbel without spending a whole day on the road.
What Luxor does best
Luxor is ancient Thebes, and the sites sit on two sides of the river.
- East Bank: Karnak, the largest temple complex in Egypt, and Luxor Temple in the middle of town, with the Luxor Museum on the Corniche between them.
- West Bank: the Valley of the Kings, the Temple of Hatshepsut, Medinet Habu, the Colossi of Memnon and several groups of private tombs.
The ministry's site lists Karnak at EGP 600 and the Valley of the Kings at EGP 750 for foreign adults, with Luxor Temple at EGP 500 (as of October 2026). The Valley of the Kings ticket covers three tombs; Tutankhamun and Seti I need extra tickets. Earth Trekkers suggests allowing about 1 to 1.5 hours for a quick visit to three tombs and around 3 hours if you want six.
Opening hours shape the days. Karnak and the Valley of the Kings open from 6:00 to 17:00, while Luxor Temple stays open until 20:00 according to the ministry (as of October 2026). That makes Luxor Temple an evening visit and frees the mornings for the West Bank before the heat and the tour buses build up.
If you plan to see most of the big sites, the Luxor Pass can work out cheaper: Explore Luxor lists the standard pass at US$130, valid for five consecutive days, sold in person and paid in cash (as of September 2026). It is worth doing the sums against the single tickets for your own plan.
Why three nights: two full days lets you cover one bank each. A third day gives you Medinet Habu, the Tombs of the Nobles or the museum, an early balloon flight, or simply a slower afternoon. Our three-day Luxor plan sets it out day by day.
What Aswan does best
Aswan is the place to slow down. The Nile is narrower and rocky here, and the town faces Elephantine Island and the dunes of the West Bank.
- Philae Temple, reached by a short motorboat ride (about 10 minutes, per Earth Trekkers).
- The Unfinished Obelisk and the Nubian Museum, both on the south side of town.
- Qubbet el-Hawa, the tombs of the nobles on the West Bank hill.
- A felucca sail around the islands, usually in the late afternoon.
- The Nubian villages on Elephantine and on the West Bank.
Earth Trekkers suggests two days in Aswan: one for the town and the river, one for Abu Simbel.
Abu Simbel is the reason many people add a night. It sits about 280 km south of Aswan by road, around 3 to 4 hours each way. Day tours usually pick you up between 4:00 and 5:00. There are also short flights, which leave early in the morning and can be cancelled in sandstorms (We Seek Travel, updated July 2026). Nile Empire lists Abu Simbel at EGP 820 and Philae at EGP 550 for foreign adults (as of April 2026). Our Abu Simbel guide compares the day trip with sleeping there.
How many nights, by trip length
| Nights in the south | Luxor | Aswan | What you give up |
|---|---|---|---|
| 3 | 3 | 0 | Aswan and Abu Simbel; Luxor gets the full time |
| 4 | 2 | 2 | A slower day in Luxor; Abu Simbel is a long day trip |
| 5 | 3 | 2 | Little: the balanced first-visit split |
| 6 | 3 | 2 + 1 at Abu Simbel | Nothing important |
| 7 or more | 3–4 | 3 | Room for the Esna–Edfu–Kom Ombo road trip or a dahabiya |
Count travel days honestly. A day spent driving between the two cities with stops at the temples (about 9.5 hours door to door with three temples, according to Earth Trekkers) is a sightseeing day, but not a day in either city.
A cruise changes the maths
A three- or four-night Nile cruise covers both cities and the temples in between in one package. The trade-off is time: you usually get one intense day in Luxor and one in Aswan, with fixed visiting hours. If you want the boat and the cities, a common pattern is a cruise plus one or two hotel nights in Luxor at the end. We compare both options in Nile cruise or hotels.
Which way round
Both directions work, and trains, cars and cruise boats run both ways. Two points help you decide:
- Flights. Flying into one city and out of the other avoids going back on yourself. Check which airport has the better connection from where you start.
- Pace. Starting in Luxor puts the busiest days first and ends the trip in a quieter place. Starting in Aswan means Abu Simbel comes early, when you are fresh enough for a 4:00 start.
For the transfer itself (train, car with stops at Esna, Edfu and Kom Ombo, cruise or dahabiya) see how to get from Luxor to Aswan.
Where to base yourself in each city
Luxor. The East Bank centre puts you within walking distance of Luxor Temple and the station: Abeer Guest House is about 0.6 km from the temple in a straight line and scores 9.4 on Booking.com from 592 reviews (checked 11 Oct 2026). The big Corniche hotels such as Sonesta St. George (9.1 on Booking.com from 3,505 reviews, checked 11 Oct 2026) have pools and Nile views. Across the river, the villages near the public ferry are closer to the West Bank sites: Nile Castle scores 9.5 from 842 reviews and Luxor Oasis Guest House 9.1 from 827 (both on Booking.com, checked 11 Oct 2026). All areas are compared in where to stay in Luxor.
Aswan. The Nubian villages on Elephantine Island are a short public ferry ride from the Corniche. Kashta Nubian Guest House (9.7 on Booking.com from 374 reviews, checked 11 Oct 2026) lists check-out from 04:00, which suits the early Abu Simbel departures. On the south Corniche, the Old Cataract is the classic splurge. For the extra night at the temples, Kabara Nubian House is about 1.3 km from them in a straight line. See where to stay in Aswan for the full comparison.
When to change the split
- More Luxor if tombs and temples are the point of the trip, or if you want the Seti I tomb, Medinet Habu and the Tombs of the Nobles without rushing.
- More Aswan if you want rest between sites, are travelling with children who need a slower day, or want the evening sound-and-light show at Abu Simbel.
- An extra night in either in the hot months, when the sensible hours at the sites are early morning and late afternoon. Our best time to visit guide goes through it month by month.
Ticket prices and opening hours change often, and since 2026 most sites take cards only (as of April 2026, according to Nile Empire). Check the official monuments site before you go.
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Photo: Diego Delso, CC BY-SA 4.0